Remove Noise From Audio
Take hiss, fan noise, room tone and mains hum out of a recording — with a proper before and after comparison, so you can hear what the processing cost. Nothing is uploaded.
Drop your recording here
MP3, WAV, M4A, OGG, FLAC — or a video, to clean its soundtrack.
Nothing is uploaded. The audio is processed on this device.
Steady noise has a shape. A computer fan, an air conditioner, tape hiss, the general hum of a room — each of them puts roughly the same amount of energy into the same frequencies, second after second. Speech does not: it moves constantly, and at any given instant most of its energy is concentrated in a few narrow bands rather than spread evenly across all of them. That difference is what makes the two separable.
So the recording is cut into short overlapping frames, each is turned into a spectrum, and every narrow band of every frame is compared against how loud that band is when only noise is present. Louder, and it is kept. Quieter, and it is turned down. That measurement is why the tool asks you to mark a second of silence: it can estimate the noise floor on its own, but it does better when shown.
It is worth being clear about the limits. This removes constant background noise, which is what actually ruins most recordings. It cannot remove a door slamming, a cough or a passing siren, because those look like signal rather than noise, and nothing that runs in a browser can tell them apart. It also cannot remove echo, which is your own voice arriving late. Tools that promise otherwise are either using a large machine-learning model you would have to upload your audio to, or overselling.
How to remove noise from a recording
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1. Open the recording
Drop in an MP3, WAV, M4A, OGG or FLAC — or a video file, to clean its soundtrack. It is decoded in your browser and never uploaded.
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2. Mark a second of pure noise
Tick "Measure the noise from a marked section" and drag the handles over a stretch where nobody is speaking — the room tone before the first word is ideal. Measuring the noise works far better than guessing at it, and one second is plenty.
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3. Press Remove noise
The recording is analysed frame by frame. Anything that matches the noise you marked is turned down; anything louder than it is kept.
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4. Listen to what was removed
Under What was removed, each stage shows the sound it took out, on its own, with a play button. This is the most useful check in the tool: a layer that is nothing but hiss means the settings are right, and one with words faintly audible in it means the reduction is eating the voice and should come down.
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5. Compare before and after
Play Original, then Cleaned. This is the important step: processed audio always sounds impressive until you hear the original again, and switching between them is the only honest way to tell whether something you wanted went missing.
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6. Adjust, then download
If hiss survives, raise Sensitivity. If words sound hollow or watery, lower Strength or raise Smoothing. Then pick a format and download.
Matching the tool to the noise
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🌬 Hiss, fans, air conditioning
The main noise reduction, with a marked noise sample. Start at 18 dB and work down if the voice starts to sound hollow.
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⚡ Electrical hum and buzz
The mains hum notch, not the main reduction. Pick 50 or 60 Hz and raise the harmonics — the buzz is mostly harmonics.
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🚚 Traffic and handling rumble
The rumble filter. Speech has nothing below 80 Hz, so removing it is free — but leave it alone for music with real bass.
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🚪 Doors, coughs, barking
Not removable this way — they are events, not steady noise. Cut them out instead with the audio cutter.
Listening to what was removed
The hard thing about noise reduction is that its failures are silent. Something that has been removed is not there to hear, so a cleaned track always sounds like an improvement — and the breath, the room, the soft consonant at the end of a word are gone before you notice they were ever candidates.
So each stage keeps what it took out and shows it on its own, with a level, a waveform and a play button. Play a layer and the answer is immediate. Nothing but a flat wash of hiss means the settings are right. Words, breaths or the shape of music in it means the reduction has gone past the noise and into the recording, and the strength should come down. The arithmetic is exact: the cleaned track plus every layer adds back up to the original, sample for sample, so nothing is hidden between them.
If the result sounds wrong
Watery, warbling or robotic. This is musical noise, and it is the classic failure of every tool that works this way. It happens when each frequency band is switched on and off independently from frame to frame, so the leftover noise becomes a shifting pattern of isolated tones instead of a smooth hiss. Raise the Smoothing controls first — they exist precisely to prevent this — and lower Strength second.
Words sound hollow, or breaths have vanished. Too much reduction. Bring Strength down; 12 dB is gentle and often enough. Lowering Sensitivity also helps, since it widens what counts as wanted sound.
Hiss is still there. Raise Sensitivity before you raise Strength — the problem is usually that the noise floor was measured too low, not that the reduction is too gentle. If you did not mark a noise section, mark one; it is the single biggest improvement available.
Everything is quieter than before. Expected — you removed energy from the recording. Tick Normalise to put the level back.
Frequently asked questions
How do I remove background noise from an audio file for free? +
Drop the file above, mark a second of pure background noise with the handles, and press Remove noise. Then compare Original against Cleaned before downloading. There is no sign-up, no watermark and no file size limit, and the recording is never uploaded — the processing runs on your own machine.
Is my recording uploaded anywhere? +
No. It is decoded and processed entirely in your browser, and nothing is sent to any server. This matters here more than almost anywhere else: the recordings people clean up are interviews, lectures, medical appointments, therapy sessions and confidential meetings.
What kind of noise can it actually remove? +
Steady, continuous noise — tape hiss, computer fans, air conditioning, traffic rumble, room tone, mains hum, general static. These have a roughly constant spectrum, which is what makes them separable from speech and music. It will not remove a door slamming, a dog barking, a chair scraping or someone coughing: those are one-off events that look like signal rather than noise, and no tool that works this way can tell them apart. Anything claiming otherwise in a browser is overselling.
How does it work? +
Spectral gating, the same approach Audacity uses. The recording is cut into short overlapping frames and each is transformed into a spectrum. From the noise you marked, the tool learns how loud each narrow band of frequency is when only noise is present. Then, in every frame, each band is compared against that measurement: louder than the noise and it is kept, quieter and it is turned down by the amount you set. The result is transformed back into sound.
Can I hear what was removed? +
Yes, and it is the fastest way to get the settings right. Each stage keeps the sound it took out and shows it separately: rumble, mains hum, background noise, and silenced pauses, each with its own level, waveform and play button. Play them. If a layer is nothing but steady hiss, the reduction is doing exactly its job. If you can hear words, breaths or music in it, that material is being removed from your recording and the strength should come down. Judging the cleaned track alone will never tell you this, because what is missing from it is by definition not there to hear. The layers are exact — the cleaned track plus every layer adds back up to the original sample for sample.
Why does over-processing sound watery or robotic? +
That artefact is called musical noise, and it comes from each frequency band being switched on and off independently between frames. The residual noise stops being a smooth hiss and becomes a shifting pattern of isolated tones, which the ear finds far more objectionable than the hiss it replaced. The Smoothing controls prevent it by blurring the decision across neighbouring bands and neighbouring frames, so nothing flickers. If your result sounds watery, raise Smoothing first and lower Strength second.
Do I have to mark a noise section? +
No, but it is better. Without one, the tool estimates the noise floor from the quietest quarter of each frequency band across the whole recording, which works because in most recordings most frames of any given band contain only noise. Marking a genuine second of silence is more accurate, and it is the single biggest thing you can do to improve the result.
What does the Strength setting do? +
It sets how far the noise is pushed down, in decibels. 12 dB is gentle and nearly always safe. 18 dB, the default, handles most recordings. Past about 24 dB the processing usually starts to be audible on the voice itself — a slight hollowness or a loss of breath and air. More is not better; the aim is the least reduction that makes the recording comfortable to listen to.
What is the Sensitivity setting for? +
It decides how far above the measured noise floor a sound has to be before it counts as something you want to keep. Raise it if hiss is surviving the process. Lower it if quiet consonants, the ends of words, or soft passages are being eaten. It is the control to reach for when Strength alone is not getting you there.
How do I get rid of an electrical hum or buzz? +
Use the Mains hum setting rather than the main noise reduction — a notch filter is far more surgical for this. Choose 50 Hz if the recording was made in Europe, Asia, Africa or Australia, and 60 Hz in the Americas or Japan. Then raise the harmonics setting: a mains hum is never only its fundamental, and it is the harmonics stacked above it that make the sound buzz rather than hum, so notching only the fundamental removes surprisingly little of the problem.
Should I use the rumble filter? +
For speech, almost always. Traffic, air conditioning, footsteps and microphone handling noise all sit below about 80 Hz, and the human voice has essentially nothing down there — so removing it costs you nothing and cleans up a lot. For music, be careful: bass guitar, kick drum and the low notes of a piano live in exactly that range, so turn it down or off.
Can it remove noise from a video? +
Yes — drop the video file in directly and it will decode and clean the audio track. What you get back is an audio file, not a video with the soundtrack replaced. To put it back you would need a video editor.
Will removing noise reduce the quality? +
Noise reduction is inherently a trade. It cannot know exactly which parts of the sound are noise, so every setting is a balance between removing background and leaving the wanted sound untouched. Used gently it is close to free; pushed hard it audibly thins the voice. This is exactly why the A/B comparison is built in rather than tucked away — judge it by ear against the original, not by how much the number moved.
Why does it take a while on long recordings? +
Because it is real signal processing rather than a volume adjustment. Every frame of audio — and there are roughly ninety per second — is transformed into the frequency domain, examined band by band, and transformed back. A few minutes of audio means tens of thousands of transforms. It still runs many times faster than the recording plays.
Is there a file size limit? +
None imposed, since nothing is uploaded. The practical limit is memory: decoding turns compressed audio into raw samples, and the analysis holds several arrays of that size at once. An hour of audio is fine on a normal computer; phones have far less room, so trim long recordings first.
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