Photo Collage Maker
Put your photos together as a grid, justified rows, masonry columns or a filmstrip — with layouts that crop nothing if you would rather keep every photo whole. No watermark, and nothing is uploaded.
Drop your photos here
JPG, PNG, WebP or GIF. Two or twenty — the layout adapts.
Nothing is uploaded. The collage is made on this device.
There is one real design question in a collage, and it is what to do when photographs of different shapes have to share a rectangle. A tidy grid cannot hold a portrait and a landscape at the same size without cutting something off — that is geometry rather than a shortcoming of the software. So there are exactly two honest answers: crop the photos so they fit, or let the arrangement bend so they do not have to.
Most collage makers only do the first, and do it silently. That is why people end up with a face half missing from the edge of a cell and no idea what happened. Both approaches are here, and each layout says which one it is: the grid trims the edges to make everything line up, while justified rows and masonry columns keep every pixel and give up the neat alignment instead.
Nothing is uploaded. The photographs are read, arranged and rendered on your own machine, which is also why there is no size limit and no watermark — there is no server cost to recover.
How to make one
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1. Add your photos
Drop in as many as you like. They are read on your own device and never uploaded, whatever their size.
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2. Pick a layout
Grid gives neat equal cells and trims the edges of photos to fill them. Justified rows and masonry columns keep every photo whole and let the arrangement bend instead. Each layout says which of the two it is doing.
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3. Choose the canvas
Instagram square, portrait or story, landscape for a presentation, or A4 and 6×4 at 300 dpi for printing. Or type any size you like.
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4. Arrange and style
Drag any photo onto another to swap them, or use the arrows. Rotate a sideways one. Then set the gap, outer margin, corner rounding, borders, background colour and shadow.
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5. Download
The preview is the same layout drawn smaller; the export renders at full resolution. Save as JPG, PNG or WebP.
Which layout to choose
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Grid — neat, crops
Equal cells in even rows. Every photo is scaled up until it covers its cell and the overflow is trimmed from the edges. The tidiest result, and the one to avoid if the edges of your photos matter.
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Justified rows — keeps everything
Photos are gathered into a row until it is too wide, then the whole row is scaled to fit exactly. Every photo keeps its shape and both edges still line up. The layout Flickr and Google Photos use, and the best all-rounder for a mixed set.
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Masonry — keeps everything
Fixed column widths, with each photo joining whichever column is currently shortest so they finish at a similar depth. The Pinterest look, and the better choice when most of your photos are portrait.
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Feature and filmstrip
Feature gives the first photo the left half and shares the right between the rest. Filmstrip puts everything in one row or column — with two photos and no gap, that is a clean before-and-after.
Small things that matter
The gap and the shadow argue with each other. A drop shadow needs somewhere to fall; with the photos nearly touching it lands underneath the next one and vanishes. The tool points this out rather than letting you wonder why the setting appears to do nothing.
A ragged last row is centred. Five photos in a three-column grid leaves two on the bottom row. Pushed to the left they read as a mistake — as though a third had failed to load. Centred, they read as intended.
The preview is the real layout, drawn smaller. Every measurement is in output pixels and scaled by one factor for the screen, so the gaps and corners you see are the proportions you get. Re-rendering a 3508-pixel A4 canvas on every slider drag would make the sliders unusable, so the full-size render happens once, on export.
Frequently asked questions
Are my photos uploaded anywhere? +
No. They are read, arranged and rendered entirely in your browser, and no part of them is transmitted. There is no file size limit and no cap on how many you can use, because there is no server doing the work — your own machine is. Closing the tab is the end of it.
Is there a watermark? +
No, and there is no sign-up, no account and no trial. The collage you download is the collage, at the full resolution you chose.
Can I make a collage without cropping my photos? +
Yes, and it is worth understanding why most collage makers cannot. Photographs of different shapes cannot fill a tidy grid without something being cut off — that is geometry, not a limitation of the software. Grid layouts crop, and most tools do it silently, which is why people find a face missing from the edge of a cell with no idea what happened. Justified rows and masonry columns solve it the other way: they let the arrangement bend so every photo keeps its own proportions. Nothing is cropped, and the price is that the cells are no longer all the same size.
What do the layout icons show? +
The actual arrangement. Each icon is generated by running that layout over a set of stand-in photographs of mixed shapes, so the diagram is produced by the same code that produces your collage — it cannot end up illustrating an arrangement the tool no longer makes, which is what happens to icon sets drawn by hand and maintained separately. The stand-ins are deliberately a mix of landscape, portrait and square, because a layout only shows its character when the shapes disagree.
What are the style presets? +
Ready-made combinations of the spacing and framing settings: Clean, Seamless, Cards, Polaroid, Poster, Film, Tight and Soft. They exist because those settings interact rather than being independent — a shadow needs a gap to fall into, a thick border wants a background that suits it, and heavy rounding needs spacing or the corners collide. Reaching a coherent look by moving four sliders separately takes longer than it should. Adjust any slider afterwards and the preset simply stops being highlighted, because it would be claiming to describe a collage that has moved on.
What is the difference between justified rows and masonry? +
Both keep every photo whole; they just choose a different thing to hold constant. Justified rows fill each row to a common height and stretch it to meet both edges, which is the layout Flickr and Google Photos use — it reads left to right and every row lines up. Masonry fixes the column width instead and lets each column run to whatever depth its photos need, which is the Pinterest look. Rows suit a mix of landscape and portrait; columns suit mostly-portrait sets.
How does the grid decide how many columns to use? +
On Automatic it tries every column count and picks whichever makes the cells closest to square on your chosen canvas, with a small penalty for leaving a ragged last row. Square-ish cells crop the least from ordinary photographs. You can override it if you want a specific arrangement — a 3×3 grid, or a single row.
What happens to the last row if the photos do not divide evenly? +
It is centred rather than pushed to the left. A left-aligned short row reads as a photo having gone missing off the end; a centred one reads as deliberate. In justified rows the final row keeps its natural height instead of being stretched to fill the width, which would otherwise blow up two leftover photos to an absurd size.
What size should I use? +
For Instagram: 1080×1080 square, 1080×1350 portrait — the largest the feed allows and therefore the sharpest — or 1080×1920 for a story or reel. For printing: A4 at 2480×3508 or a 6×4 photo at 1800×1200, both 300 dpi. For a presentation or a wallpaper, 1920×1080. If in doubt the square is safe almost everywhere.
Will the collage lose quality? +
Only as much as the format you save in costs. The photos are drawn at the output resolution rather than being shrunk and enlarged again, and the preview never touches the file — it is the same layout drawn smaller so the sliders stay responsive, while the export renders from scratch at full size. Save as PNG if you want no compression at all, at the cost of a much larger file. For ordinary photographs JPG at 92% is indistinguishable.
Can I reorder the photos? +
Drag any photo onto another to swap their places, or use the arrows under each thumbnail. There is also a shuffle, which is genuinely useful on the justified and masonry layouts — the arrangement depends on the order, so shuffling is the quickest way to find a mix that sits well.
Can I put photos side by side for a before and after? +
Yes — choose the Filmstrip layout, which puts everything in a single row, or tick Stack vertically for a column. With two photos and the gap set to zero you get a clean split down the middle.
Why is my shadow invisible? +
A shadow needs somewhere to fall. If the gap between photos is very small the shadow lands underneath the neighbouring photo and is covered. Raise the spacing to about ten pixels or more and it will appear; the tool says so when the two settings are fighting.
How many photos can I use? +
There is no limit imposed. The practical one is memory and legibility: forty photographs on a 1080-pixel square leaves each one about the size of a postage stamp. If you are making a large photo wall, raise the canvas size along with the count.